Rio Parana, Argentina Update
We just returned from 6 days on the Rio Parana in northern Argentina where we stayed at the home of Peto Nogare in Itati (see green placemark on map below). The river is the border between Paraguay and Argentina, home to dense jungles along the banks, massive estancia rice plantations further inland and a drug smuggler’s dream world. The Rio Parana is also home to Argentina’s national fish – the Golden Dorado – and home to several large freshwater fish: pacu, surubi, boga, armando and pirapita. The purpose of our trip was very simple: document the status of this majestic native fish and the Argentine effort to protect the dorado from overfishing and illegal poaching/smuggling by both Paraguayan and Argentine fishermen.
Our story begins in Corrientes after a 11 hour overnight bus ride from Buenos Aires. Corrientes is a town of 100,000 people and a major fishermen destination for both Argentines and Brazilians to pursue the golden dorado. Many years ago, large dorado up to 25 kilos were caught but today after decades of overfishing by recreational, commercial and poachers have decimated the population. We visited two fish markets to find out who supplies their fresh fish and if they can purchase dorado for us. When we arrived at Pescaderia Jonathan, we found an empty but upscale fish market with multiple freezers holding many fish but no dorado.
The commercial fisherman who supplies the fish market was it the store and we asked him about his business. He uses a 200 meter long by 2 meter high gill net that he sweeps the river bottom for fish catching and keep everything he catches. He does catch and keep dorado because there is always a market for it – especially in Paraguay who will buy dorado for 15 pesos/kilogram. It is illegal to sell dorado in Argentina but not in Paraguay and there are plenty of Brazilian buyers of all fish.
We left Corrientes with our guide Peto Nogare to explore the Rio Parana by boat. But first a few pictures showing the wealth extraction machine along the river.
Water pumping station for massive rice plantations operated by the family estancias along the river
Our guide Peto and his famed Suzuki jeep
Golden Dorado catch and release poster in the Corrientes bus station. First time I have ever seen an ad like this to promote protecting the species.
Longline fisherman checking his hooks in the Rio Parana. The green liter bottle holds corn which is used as a bait scent to attract fish to the baited hooks.
Sunset in the town of Yahape on the banks of the Rio Parana. The boat is a knockoff of the famed Carolina skiff complete with flat bottom, bumpy ride and shallow draft.
More later. Peace. JTM
